Setup: Solo Suspension

It's no secret that dialing in your suspension affects a bike's road manners.....hell - this variable is possibly the most important when it comes to bike/rider feel and compliance....

When I first got the Shiver I touched nothing for a week or so - let the suspension loosen up a bit......let things "bed down"

Then - I began the systematic approach of getting the rear end dialed in.....unfortunately the stock Shiver front end is not adjustable...............bummer.

As I was on my own I couldn't apply the usual technique of slack measurement, then static sag, then rider weight.....then account for 10mm of travel (taking into account rebound).....etc.........etc...you know how it goes....

SO! How does one, without help take measurements.....in an attempt.....to dial in their suspension?

Step 1 - Measure
I took measurements of the stock setup before touching a thing.

My shorthand is:
T  = Thread shown above locking ring for preload - measured in mm
C = Clicks open from fully closed on rebound

For any other Shiver owners out there......the stock setting - at least in my case - is as follows

Stock
T - 10mm
C - 9

Step 2 - Ride

Having changed nothing at all I set out to a well known ~12km stretch which has some twisties, sweepers and undulations......I did two runs on stock setting.....

Then I adjusted, measured and recorded.

T - 12.5 mm

C - 10

At this stage I wasn't sure what I wanted so I added preload and rebound to make the back end more "nervous"..........at the end of the day, twitchy is fast.......if you can handle it......

This was not my setting.....

After 2 more runs both stock and adjusted settings were too stiff for my weight.....I backed off preload and rebound.......on the bike again for two more passes......

T - 2.5 mm
C - 6

THAT was more like it! Much more compliant rear end.......

\Bitsar

Back and Blinking

After waiting ~6 weeks for the warranty claim to go through and for the part to arrive - finally - the postman brings me this!

An Aprilia OEM right-hand rear indicator.........can't see how this can be so much trouble to claim, order and post......but hell - it's here now.....time to install

I do a quick disassemble on the kitchen table to inspect how it all goes together - pretty simple.....there is no loom on the indicator itself - rather just two clips on the bottom of the lamp surround:

Get rid of the screw

Take the lamp housing and reflector apart - no problem

Now - onto the bike side.......as the wiring loom is on this end I had to disconnect the wiring at the clips while still on the bike......again, no problem - just a bit fiddly....

Then just unbolt the indicator housing and it's free!

Clip the new one into the wires, remount the reflector in the housing......replace lens and the screw......bolt back on and the blinkers are back

Done!

\BitSar

Jinxed............

A couple of weeks ago I headed down to the old stomping ground and a bit of practice.......

I love these guys and gals........the best people.......

As it happens I got talking to a good friend about bikes, as you do, and for some reason we go onto indicators.........

He rides a lovely black on black 2012 Triumph Street Triple R......a magnificent looking thing......turns out (pun intended) that the indicators are identical to those on the Ape....and the Ducs.....and the Ape APRC RSV's....etc...etc.....

They have been known to fail on the expansion section between the mount and the indicator housing.......

On the day myself and my mate were discussing the "known issue" - my reply......."Nah mate....no problem with mine.......thanks for the heads up though"

JINXED

Got off the bike the following Monday at work and realised I had a broken indicator stalk...........indicator itself still works......

All under warranty and the dealer is being very good about it so no love lost.......

And hey.........mate (you know who you are)......I've got a spare globe now!

Good times indeed..

\BitSar 

Too much lube - not enough love

Well then..........

In an attempt to keep the running gear in good condition I usually lube the chain on the inside surface about every 2 weeks.........I do "clean" the chain............however, it would appear not well enough.....

I had just washed the bike over the weekend.........(it's bloody filthy again! Thanks Melbourne.............aarg) and while detailing with Plexus and lubing the chain with Motul Road, I noticed a large dark patch near the kick stand and gear lever.......

I stuck my finger in the area between the front sprocket and the gear shift linkage.......just above the "Aprillia eni" sticker in the shot............bloody hell...........there was A LOT of unused Motul build up in there.....

It took ten minutes to scoop out wads of oily molasses......along with stones and other debris...............aaaaahhhhh abrasives......that'll really help chain and sprocket longevity....D'oh 

Having managed to clean out the majority of the larger crap and scooping out as much of the latent chain lube I am satisfied.......at least for now, that the trouble makers have been removed.....

Moral of the story.............DON'T think that a cursory clean and a good lube often is the key long chain life......for what it's worth, it would appear the opposite is true........a GOOD CLEAN and a cursory lube would be more beneficial to the running gear in my opinion.......

\BitSar