Setup & Shakedown: Solo suspension & Tyres

Time to get busy setting up the Yammy.

It's no secret the stock suspension on the MT09 leaves most riders wanting, however it is adjustable - both front and back - so before a final assessment can be made, some tweaking is required.

As always, the first step is to record the default setup.
As per my previous post Setup: Solo Suspension my shorthand is as such:

R - Rings visible on suspension crown for preload
C - Clicks closed from fully open on rebound.

For the uninitiated, here is a very simplistic explanation of preload and rebound:

Preload
The suspension spring is statically compressed to increase preload tension, thereby requiring more force to further dynamically compress the spring. End result - stiffer suspension.

Rebound
Suspension rebound refers to the rate at which the suspension oil returns to 'rest'
The rebound adjustment manipulates a valve aperture which increases or reduces the rate at which the suspension oil can flow.

Open the aperture and you reduce rebound damping, thereby providing less resistance to oscillation.
Close the aperture and you increase rebound damping, thereby proving more resistance to oscillation.

The stock MT09 front-end settings were:
R = 6.5
C = 7

There is no doubt in my mind that I need to add preload and increase rebound damping.

After some adjusting, measuring and static tests I arrive at the following settings.
R = 4
C = 13

14mm Spanner - Preload adjustment (required evenly on both fork legs)

Flathead screwdriver - Rebound adjustment

Time to dial in the rear. Again first step is to record stock settings:

The rear shock has stepped notches ranging from 1 - 7 and a rebound screw without clicked internals. As such, my shorthand is as follows:

N = Notches from setting 1 preload

T = One full revolution of the screw head from fully closed

The stock MT09 rear-end settings were:
N = 4
T = 4.5

Again, after some fettling I arrived at:
N = 6
T = 1.5

Using the supplied C-Spanner to add preload

The rebound screw can be accessed via the left side of the bike through the frame

Finally I checked the tyre pressure - oh dear!

(F/R) - (38/40) psi

That won't do - especially if I'm going to kill these Dunlops. 

I reduce the cold pressure to:

(F/R) - (30/31) psi

After completing my setup and rechecking my work to ensure everything was cinched down I set off for a shakedown. Let the fun begin.

Day 2 - photo roll.

I stopped mid way through the ride to readjust the rear-end. She was chattering about.

I reduced preload and rebound to the following:

N = 5

T = 3.5

I think there is still room for improvement. I will let things bed down for a week or so of daily use and adjust as necessary. 

That said, the chassis is much more compliant after these changes. She is still a little misbehaved in the Hills, however in the Urban environment the adjustments have improved stability dramatically. 

\BitSar

Preloading the Yam whilst on the Rebound from the Ape......

Setup: Solo Suspension

It's no secret that dialing in your suspension affects a bike's road manners.....hell - this variable is possibly the most important when it comes to bike/rider feel and compliance....

When I first got the Shiver I touched nothing for a week or so - let the suspension loosen up a bit......let things "bed down"

Then - I began the systematic approach of getting the rear end dialed in.....unfortunately the stock Shiver front end is not adjustable...............bummer.

As I was on my own I couldn't apply the usual technique of slack measurement, then static sag, then rider weight.....then account for 10mm of travel (taking into account rebound).....etc.........etc...you know how it goes....

SO! How does one, without help take measurements.....in an attempt.....to dial in their suspension?

Step 1 - Measure
I took measurements of the stock setup before touching a thing.

My shorthand is:
T  = Thread shown above locking ring for preload - measured in mm
C = Clicks open from fully closed on rebound

For any other Shiver owners out there......the stock setting - at least in my case - is as follows

Stock
T - 10mm
C - 9

Step 2 - Ride

Having changed nothing at all I set out to a well known ~12km stretch which has some twisties, sweepers and undulations......I did two runs on stock setting.....

Then I adjusted, measured and recorded.

T - 12.5 mm

C - 10

At this stage I wasn't sure what I wanted so I added preload and rebound to make the back end more "nervous"..........at the end of the day, twitchy is fast.......if you can handle it......

This was not my setting.....

After 2 more runs both stock and adjusted settings were too stiff for my weight.....I backed off preload and rebound.......on the bike again for two more passes......

T - 2.5 mm
C - 6

THAT was more like it! Much more compliant rear end.......

\Bitsar