Cold

Winter is kicking in.......big time.

Now - for the European, Canadian and North American readers I might sound a little soft........but bugger me - it was bloody cold this morning! Australian's don't like it cold........

Just as I was heading out the door ........outside it was the coldest temperature recorded for the day....2.4C - that's about 36F.....


Not only was this the coldest temperature for the day.....it's currently the coldest recorded temperature for Melbourne this year.....


Great......



I hadn't got far down the road until I realised that the "fog" on my ugly-fish riding glasses was not fog......it was ice.....bah! I took the first side street....took them off and stuffed them in my pocket.......hitched my neck-sock over my mouth and nose like a balaclava......keep going...

Then my hands started to freeze......literally. My fingers were like dead, white, blocks of wood - no feeling - minimal use for clutch and front brake.........bugger.

Over the years of winter riding and commuting you learn little tricks to keep your hands warm, mobile and tactile......

Of course you could always just pony
up the dough and get heated hand grips......but for the majority of the Australian winter they are really not NEEDED.....they are NICE....but not essential.

My little "keep warm trick" is to stuff my hands under the seat - into the gap above the trellis-frame......onto a nice, warm, rear cylinder head.......

ahhhhhh - that's better!

The only downside? I do get some strange looks from Cagers when I'm stopped at a set of traffic lights, slumped forward over the tank......giving the Ape a hug.......

But hell..........who cares what Cagers think......for that matter.....I'm not sure Cagers do think.....

\BitSar
--hugging his Ape

Setup: Solo Suspension

It's no secret that dialing in your suspension affects a bike's road manners.....hell - this variable is possibly the most important when it comes to bike/rider feel and compliance....

When I first got the Shiver I touched nothing for a week or so - let the suspension loosen up a bit......let things "bed down"

Then - I began the systematic approach of getting the rear end dialed in.....unfortunately the stock Shiver front end is not adjustable...............bummer.

As I was on my own I couldn't apply the usual technique of slack measurement, then static sag, then rider weight.....then account for 10mm of travel (taking into account rebound).....etc.........etc...you know how it goes....

SO! How does one, without help take measurements.....in an attempt.....to dial in their suspension?

Step 1 - Measure
I took measurements of the stock setup before touching a thing.

My shorthand is:
T  = Thread shown above locking ring for preload - measured in mm
C = Clicks open from fully closed on rebound

For any other Shiver owners out there......the stock setting - at least in my case - is as follows

Stock
T - 10mm
C - 9

Step 2 - Ride

Having changed nothing at all I set out to a well known ~12km stretch which has some twisties, sweepers and undulations......I did two runs on stock setting.....

Then I adjusted, measured and recorded.

T - 12.5 mm

C - 10

At this stage I wasn't sure what I wanted so I added preload and rebound to make the back end more "nervous"..........at the end of the day, twitchy is fast.......if you can handle it......

This was not my setting.....

After 2 more runs both stock and adjusted settings were too stiff for my weight.....I backed off preload and rebound.......on the bike again for two more passes......

T - 2.5 mm
C - 6

THAT was more like it! Much more compliant rear end.......

\Bitsar

To clutch or not to clutch

I've been meaning to post about clutchless shifting - both in general and on the Ape.

Firstly - I am a big advocate of clutchless shifting, especially when you've got the hammer down and really want to crack on some power and speed. Clutchless shifting under this scenario does not upset the power train as much as using the clutch would - hence, smoother and faster acceleration. Game on.

Secondly - clutchless shifting, especially on the Ape (I have found) also hones your clutched shifting technique giving seamless clutched changes without issue. I've found the "throw" between gears on the Ape is a little longer than other bikes, using a clutchless "type" technique, even when using the clutch makes clutched shifting very smooth indeed.

So. What is the clutchless shifting technique? It is all very simple.

Firstly - load the gear shifter with your toe.


Do this while in gear and when you still have power on - you will feel resistance through the shifter.


Keep this positive pressure applied on the lever.











Next - give the throttle a momentary close.


You will not need to fully close the throttle - nowhere near it infact. Just a roll-off.


Make sure to keep the same amount of positive pressure on the shift lever throughout this throttle action - bang - the shift happens smoothly and cleanly.....done!


What is actually occurring in the transmission is that the clutch "dogs" which are engaged via torque and hold the gear position are momentarily released when you back off power, this allows the sequential gear box to slide into the next gear. Simple!


So do you clutch or no-clutch?

\BitSar